Sandblasting
Sandblasting and Media Blasting is the most efficient and economically effective way to remove paint, rust, and corrosion from metal surfaces such as Motorcycle Frames, Fenders, and Tanks, (often referred to as "tins"). When done correctly, a perfect surface for paint, free from contamination, is the result.
Sand is generally available in 4 different abrasive categories: coarse, medium, fine, and white sand,(super fine). The white sand is basically the same as glass beads in it's abrasiveness. It works well on aluminum and softer metals.
We like to use fine sand in blasting motorcycle frames, tanks, and fenders. Fine sand gets down into the nooks and crannies very well, while removing paint and coatings pretty decently. Using fine sand also "pings" the metal slightly, creating a degree of abrasive surface called "tooth", which allows primer to grip the metal better. The white sand is too fine, and will not do this.
All metal surfaces get sanded with sandpaper after sandblasting, to assure extra "tooth", before applying the primer base, when we do a complete paint job. This is where the "ping" of the fine sand comes into play. It gets into all the areas you cannot reach with sandpaper.
In my experience, this is essential to a quality, long lasting custom paint job. Virtually every paint job on this site was sandblasted before painting was begun. I am a firm believer that a quality custom paint job starts with a quality base to work with.
Stripping paint from metal objects such as motorcycle frames, tanks and fenders, (tins), can be accomplished in numerous ways. We will discuss a few of the more popular here.
Chemical Paint Stripper.
Over the years, chemical paint removers such as "Formula 1 Paint Remover", has been a popular choice among refinishers. By applying the stripper with a wide paint brush in a single direction, paint was dissolved, (usually in layers), and scraped off with a putty knife or similar hand tool. Normally, this required repeated applications, especially with thick or multiple layered paint jobs.
| Pros: |
This was effective to a certain degree on many paint surfaces. The newer catalyzed, (hardened), paints such as the newer urethanes, are often resistant to chemical stripping. It did/does not take any special training or out of the ordinary tools for the average do-it-yourselfer to successfully accomplish the task. Instructions are on the can. With the average cost of a gallon of stripper hanging around $25-$30 per gallon, it isn't super expensive. |
| Cons: |
This is, in essence, an acidic product. This means precautions must be taken in both the application as well as the disposal of the end resulting waste. Touching bare skin will leave burns and irritations. Protective gloves with long sleeves is recommended with no bare skin such as shorts and sandals. The fumes off of the stripper in the can and during the process is bad news toxic. Proper filtering masks and ventilation is an absolute must. Proper disposal of the stripped paint material, in accordance with local codes, should be followed to prevent contact/contamination with both people and animals as well as the environment. Another unfortunate side effect of using stripper, is the fact that it will penetrate into cracks and crevices such as joints, welds, and layered metal sections. This makes it tough, if not impossible at times, to get out. Failure to remove completely, will often result in the new paint bubbling up and or delaminating after the paint job is finished and on the bike maybe weeks later. Usually when it is sitting at a bike show, all polished out, while you are bragging it up! |
Acid Dip
This is very much like the paint stripper except the object to be stripped, is submerged in a tank to achieve the stripping process. it also has the same drawbacks with contamination remaining it the cracks if not successfully washed out. Normally, an individual would not be doing this, but rather taking it to a facility to have it done. With the new and increasing EPA rules on just about everything, I'm not sure how many such operations still exist doing this.
Sandpaper Sanding
The old standby of using sandpaper either by hand or with an air tool like a DA or grinder, still works. It often removes more of the base metal than is really necessary. It can also heat up the metal on thin surfaces like body tin, causing it to warp and distort. The biggest downside is usually the amount of time spent using this process.
Grumpy's can handle most any sandblasting job you've got,
from large items to toy restoration. Give us a call,
or send us email!
1-620-662-6005
Grumpy@grumpyspaint.com